How to 3D Print Your Own Dungeons & Dragons Figures and Miniatures [IGN]

The whole process can still be a minefield for someone who has no idea how 3D printing works. We’ve got you covered with a start-to-finish guide on how to 3D print your own miniatures, although printing off extra parts for official miniatures or Dungeons and Dragons action figures is an amazing idea too!

The following steps can be applied to anything you’d like to print, including scenery, dice towers, and more. We recommend using ABS-Like resin for added durability and STL files designed for 3D printing; just shrinking down a cool collectible could result in weak points, and no one wants to break their minis from a silly mistake.

Best 3D Printers for Miniatures

Elegoo Saturn 4

A great affordable option.

Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra

Fast auto level printing with a reasonably sized build plate.

Elegoo Mars 5

Out of the box miniature printing.

Elegoo Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra

Smaller build plate than the Saturn range but is out-of-the-box printing ideal for miniatures.

Elegoo Jupiter SE

No auto leveling but its large build plate and resin pump are great for printing large scenery and armies.

For this walkthrough, we’ll use a range of Elegoo products (including Saturn 4 Ultra), Wash and Cure machines, and ABS-Like resin 2.0. Before printing, make sure you’re in a well-ventilated area and have plenty of the following for managing resin:

• Rubber gloves
• Kitchen roll
• Isopropyl alcohol (ideally in a spray bottle)
• A face mask
• Eye protection
• A Silicone mat or easy-to-clean surface for handling uncured resin and prints
• Pair of small model clips. This isn’t something you can do at your PC desk!

Top Tips for 3D Printing Your Miniatures

• Ventilation and safety: Always work in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves and eye protection when handling resin and isopropyl alcohol to avoid skin irritation and inhaling fumes.
• Printer maintenance: Regularly clean your printer and resin vat to maintain high-quality prints and prolong the lifespan of your equipment.
• Patience and practice: 3D printing can be as much an art as a science. Take your time with initial failures. Each print is a learning experience that brings you closer to mastering the craft. If you don’t have a 3D printer, we recommend the Saturn 4 series for out-of-the-box printing and maintenance.

Preparing the 3D Model

• Obtain a model
  • Download STL files from websites like Thingiverse or create one using Blender or Tinkercad.
  • For custom models, use services like Hero Forge.
• Model inspection
  • Ensure the model is error-free using tools like Meshmixer.
  • Alternatively, use Chitubox’s repair function for an all-in-one solution.

You’ll need your favorite miniature’s STL file to get started. You can download a model from websites like Thingiverse or create one using 3D modeling software such as Blender or Tinkercad. We recommend using a service such as Hero Forge to make a custom hero with an easy-to-use interface. If you’re just looking for monsters to fill out your table or proxies for most tabletop games, Thingiverse is your best bet. For this guide, we’ll use “Ogre from D&D Essentials kit” by sergeantr on Thingiverse.

Once you have your model, it’s essential to ensure it is error-free. Tools like Meshmixer can help you check for and repair any issues that might interfere with printing. Properly preparing your Model will save time and materials later. Chitubox also has a repair function for an all-in-one solution.

Setting Up Chitubox

• Software Installation and Model Loading
  • Download and install Chitubox from the official website to your PC.
  • Load your 3D model file (STL or OBJ format).
• Model Orientation
  • Properly orient the model to minimize the need for supports.
  • Use the auto-orientation option or position the model at a 45% angle.
• Model Scaling
  • Ensure the model is scaled to the desired size.
  • Use the grid on the virtual build plate for reference.

Chitubox is a user-friendly slicing software that prepares your 3D model for printing. After downloading and installing Chitubox from the official website, open the program and load your 3D model file, which is usually in.STL or .OBJ format. Proper orientation of the model is crucial; aim to position it to minimize the need for supports, as this will reduce printing time and the amount of resin used.

There’s an auto-orientation option, but the rule is to position your mini at a 45% angle, facing away from where potential supports may land. This ensures less pressure on the print pulling away from the FEP (the film above your printer screen) and far less post-processing once it’s printed.

Ensure the model is scaled to the desired size of your miniature (most miniature STL files are already the correct size or 54mm/35mm as standard). The grid on your virtual Chitubox build plate is set in 1cm squares as standard for reference.

Hollowing and Placing Holes

• Hollowing the model
  • Hollow the miniature to save resin and ease the printing process.
  • Set infill to around 70% for structural integrity.
• Placing holes
  • Place holes in discreet areas (e.g., under feet, base of club, under arms) to release trapped gasses.

Once you’re happy with the print positioning, we recommend hollowing out our miniature to save on resin and making the print easier on your 3D printer when pushing and pulling layers. When hollowing, check the infill option at around 70% to fill that dead space with a grid structure to maintain the structure of your mini.

The uncured resin inside a print will cause gasses to build up over time and eventually break your miniature, so it’s a good idea to place holes under the feet and other hard-to-spot places. Some options when punching holes will increase or decrease the diameter; this just depends on what model you choose to print. We decided to punch holes into the feet, the base of the club, and under the arms of our ogre.

Adding Supports

• Generating supports
  • Use Chitubox to automatically generate supports.
  • Ensure all overhangs and blank spots are supported.
  • Use light supports to avoid damage when removing them.

Supports are essential for preventing overhanging parts of your Model from sagging or failing during printing. In Chitubox, you can generate support automatically, which is convenient and usually effective. All you need to do is hit the supports tab on the right-hand side a press “Auto+” to generate them for you.

There’s no need to mess with the support settings too much; just make sure any overhangs or blank spots are supported by clicking on the area that needs support. Imagine the print upside down and thinking if a certain problem area would be able to be lifted after a layer is cured. Also, for jobs like this, just use light supports to avoid any potholes on your finished prints after removing supports.

Slicing the Model

• Printer and resin settings
  • Select your printer (the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra, in this case) in Chitubox.
  • Match printer settings to the specifications for Elegoo ABS-Like resin.
• Slicing and saving
  • Slice the model and generate a file for the printer.
  • Save the sliced file to a USB drive or transfer via WiFi.

With your model oriented and supports in place, the next step is to slice the Model. In Chitubox, select the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra from the list of printers. Ensure that the printer settings match the specifications for the Elegoo ABS-Like resin, including the layer height and exposure time. Chitubox usually gets this right first time and there’s no need to adjust (Elegoo and Anycubic resin always works a treat for us).

If you’re unsure of what settings your resin needs, the manufacturer usually has a table of their resins and settings. Here’s Elegoo’s as an example of what we’ve followed:

• ELEGOO Saturn 4 Ultra
• ABS-Like Resin 2.0
• Color: Grey
• Bottom Exposure(s) 25-35
• Normal Exposure(s) 2.5-3
• Layer Height: 0.05

In our example, we would make sure these print settings are correct before slicing then leave anything the resin settings hasn’t mentioned as default.

Once everything is set up, click the “Slice” button. Chitubox will process the model and generate a file that the printer can read, layer by layer. Save this sliced file to a USB drive plugged into your printer. We can WiFi transfer on Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra, but we prefer USB out of personal preference.

Printing the Model

• Printer preparation
  • Level the build plate using a piece of paper.
  • Ensure auto-leveling and check resin levels.
• Resin handling
  • Shake the resin bottle well and pour into the vat.
  • Mix resin in the vat if left from previous use.
• Start printing
  • Insert the USB drive and start printing.
  • The printer will create the model layer by layer.

Preparing your resin 3D printer involves a few steps, which should be done for every 10 prints. Popping a piece of paper underneath the build plate with the resin vat removed will allow you to set the level of your build plate to enable the resin to cure on it layer by layer. Please check your 3D printer instructions for this, but the principle is the same.

Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra features auto-leveling, checked when turned on alongside failed prints, with resin levels checked as the print starts. Stock is a little thin on the ground for the Ultra, but the standard Elegoo Saturn 4 has the same features for out-of-the-box printing. If you do happen to have a failed print from previous use or while following this guide, you’ll probably find cured resin stuck to the FEP. Most resin 3D printers now have a tank clean option, allowing the user to expose the full resin vat to UV light to create a solid layer of cured resin. This just needs to be peeled off, and the job is done.

Shake the Elegoo ABS-Like resin bottle well to mix the contents thoroughly, then pour the resin into the printer’s vat, mindful of the fill level. Naughty users like us keep the resin in the vat due to continuous use, so just make sure it gets a good mix with a plastic utensil before starting printing. (Don’t use a metal scraper; it will 100% rip your FEP and possibly damage the screen.)

This is where the fun begins! Insert the USB drive into the printer, select the file, and start printing. The printer will do the rest, creating your model layer by layer.

Post-Processing

• Model removal and cleaning
  • Remove the build plate and detach the model using a scraper.
  • Wash the model in isopropyl alcohol using an Elegoo Wash and Cure station.
• Support removal
  • Remove supports, using clips or a modeling knife for hard-to-reach areas.
• Curing
  • Cure the model according to the resin manufacturer’s instructions.

Once the print is complete, carefully remove the build plate and detach the model using a scraper (most printers come with one). To remove any uncured resin from the model, place it in the Elegoo Wash and Cure station filled with isopropyl alcohol (IPA). I run the cleaning cycle according to the station’s instructions. I usually do around 10 minutes, which is a bit longer if we have cloudy IPA.

After washing and dabbing dry with a kitchen roll or similar, remove the supports from your miniature, which should just pop off for light supports. Always have a set of clips or a modeling knife on hand for hard-to-reach areas.

Now it’s curing time! Transfer the model to the curing chamber. Proper curing is crucial as it fully hardens the resin, giving the model its final strength and stability. Cure the model for the time recommended by the resin manufacturer; I usually do 10-15 minutes for minis or longer for scenery, statues, etc.

Finishing Touches

• Support removal and sanding
  • Carefully remove any remaining supports.
  • Sand rough areas for a smooth finish.
• Painting preparation
  • Apply a primer before painting.
  • Use acrylic paints and fine brushes for detailed work.

After the model is cured, it’s time for the final touches. Carefully remove any supports using flush cutters or a similar tool. Sand any rough areas left by the supports to achieve a smooth finish. (Purchasing a rotary tool like a dremel will save so much time!) If you plan to paint your miniature, begin with a primer to help the paint adhere better to the resin. Use acrylic paints and fine brushes for detailed work, bringing your miniature to life with vibrant colors and intricate details.

Appendix: Key Terms and Resources

• ABS-Like Resin
  • A type of resin used in 3D printing that mimics the properties of ABS plastic, known for its strength and durability.
• Chitubox
  • A user-friendly slicing software that prepares 3D models for printing by converting them into a series of layers.
• Meshmixer
  • A free 3D modeling tool used to check and repair models for printing, ensuring they are error-free.
• STL or OBJ Format
  • File formats used for 3D models. STL (Stereolithography) and OBJ (Object) files contain geometric data of the models.
• Tinkercad
  • A simple, online 3D design and modeling tool suitable for beginners.
• Thingiverse
  • A popular website where users can download free 3D models for printing.
• Hero Forge
  • An online service that allows users to create custom 3D models of miniatures with an easy-to-use interface.

Christian Wait is a UK-based freelancer for IGN, you can follow him @ChrisReggieWait on Twitter/X.